Monday, April 2, 2012

6 Things I've Learned Working With My Spouse, Edwardian Ball Retrospective, Spring Shows

It's been quite a year at Compass Rose Design Jewelry. A combination of life and family circumstances, as well as a growing list of wholesale accounts in the US and our first International order has forced me to think a lot about the limitations of identifying as a one-woman operation. Despite being in recovery from non-profit burnout, I felt a lot of pride in being a one-woman indie-designer.  I have learned to transition from a state of overworked almost embattled orientation, but in some ways this initial phase is required believe that founding a small business is possible. Our work at Compass Rose is about wearing history, understanding the origins of a world poised between centuries of social conventions facing new technologies and political upheaval. We are much more than steampunk and we are much more than a one person project.

Our Beginnings:
After I returned from living for several years in Amsterdam in 2008 and was frustrated by the opportunities available in the nonprofit sector or pr consulting, my fields of official expertise - I started my etsy shop. Sometimes during the first couple years, it worried me that designing and making jewelry was not political enough, not making enough of a difference - but now I think differently. Running a sustainable small business - we're talking living wage and health insurance - is possible, but difficult. We compete with a world of hobbyists and crafterfolk who undercharge for their work. I compete with $20 necklaces in the steampunk genre made with faux antiques at shows and galleries - this means the artist is getting $10 per necklace with at least $5-6 in materials. I refuse to work below minimum wage, it's just not what I'm doing. The ability for my husband and I to create jobs for ourselves that allow us to feel the self-respect and dignity of making things (see Shop Class as Soulcraft) and keeping ones mind applied to the projects of your own choosing and invention - feels powerful. We are reminded of our ability to make things happen.

Change Happens In An Instant:
When my husband found himself let go last fall from what he thought was a stable job after helping his parents with some medical stuff for two weeks - we were thrown for a loop. It's definitely been one of those blessings in disguise - my sweetie is a lot happier, picked up his banjo again and started helping out with Compass Rose Design. Despite the fact that things have been tight, we're taking the opportunity to celebrate NOT working for disrespectful bosses. In the last six months, we've grown into the idea of being a family business.

Though he's been super supportive from day one - I think the growth of the project into an actual business shocked my husband - in a great way. Finding yourselves at such a crossroads as a sudden change of income as we did after the loss of his job can cause one to either get depressed or resourceful - and we've chosen the latter.  It helps that he is just as much of a history nerd as I am and has a handful of relevant skills. We're a long ways from supporting our entire lives and putting away savings with this work, but we can understand that it's possible. Growing from a business where the administration is done in my head to a scenario of working with my life partner has brought up some fascinating lessons for us - I thought I'd compile a brief list.

Six Lessons I've learned (am still learning) working with my spouse in a home business:
1. Talk about it, but not unless everyone ate breakfast
2. Everyone should pursue their interests and skills
3. Build for Success - Make a Work Space that Works!
4. Partnership Frees Creative Energy 
5. Don't be Afraid of Change, Or Be Afraid but Be Open to Change Anyways
6. Leave the Workshop Occasionally

1. Talk about it, but not unless everyone ate breakfast
 We used to ship our etsy sales in the morning, sometimes before breakfast, but not any more. There were so many things, like everything, that I just do the way I do because I have. It was important for me to learn that Johnny could not read my mind and to be receptive to Johnny' ideas about systems and how we do things. It took me a while to understand that I expected him to know how things operated and that I was getting frustrated, which was unreasonable. Part of this was making sure we had eaten and weren't crabby when we talked (mostly me). I also had to be flexible about being open to new systems and ways of doing things - whether it was how we ship from our etsy shop, to how we solder or find antiques or when we order supplies. He has a lot of good ideas and we had to learn how to manage the logistics and emotional aspect of establishing practices together. We're learning to be flexible - finding some way between that makes sense.

2. Everyone should pursue their interests and skills
Johnny at the Soldering Bench
It takes a while to sort out who does what, but it does sort out organically. I definitely got to a place where doing production, social media, events, accounting and administration were becoming too much for just me and my workshop was constantly jumbled as I attempted to keep up. Luckily - Johnny is an expert solderer with significant welding and metalworking and carpentry skill. He's awesome at photography and photoshop (his first paid job was for a wedding photographer) and improving our production processes.  We rephotographed and edited our entire etsy shop (more than 2000 photos) in less than two weeks. He has built a full soldering station and constantly identifies clever ways to solder things better, more clean, more sturdy, better.  Since we are one of a handful of etsy sellers doing silver soldering work rather than using glue, so it's nice to have more hands at the workbench.


3. Build for Success - Make a Work Space that Works!
Our Workshop/ Living Room
It did not occur to me at first, but space matters more than I thought! With two of us working, we needed to make sure there was enough space to make and store and still live in our house. Because we work from home - it's a constant challenge to maintain a separation between work and life - more specifically, there isn't one.  Every week, we sort hundreds of antique parts from flea markets and attics and staying organized is crucial. The three sets of shelves he built has allowed us to have a place for everything, for the first time. We both share a mix of busy-work and higher-level work that helps us feel valuable and stay engaged. I had to learn that lots of stuff doesn't matter and that having the ability to control our pace and alternate our work is important to both of us. The importance of having good workspace and storage REALLY helps eliminate clutter and makes a much more productive workspace.


4. Partnership Frees Creative Energy
In stepping back, we've also clarified that it is the history behind the object that is so interesting to us and to our customers - that history transcends trends like steampunk. It's why we use genuine antiques in our work and are always finding new bits to treasure.  Johnny's love of trains and railroad history has also inspired new collections. I'd worked with train buttons - in particular a Swedish set of uniform buttons from 1903-1905, but Johnny created several new designs and even found a use for his rather large date nail collection - date nail cufflinks.  Most of them date from the 1920s and 1930s.

The ANTIQUITY Collection
Because Johnny is doing so much soldering, I finally got to launch my ANTIQUITY collection, a high-end collection of jewelry using genuine Victorian watch chains and decorative fobs of semi-precious gemstones. I've had the collection ready for almost six moths, but have finally had the space of mind to list some on etsy. Each piece comes with a historical description of the design elements and the natural history of the gemstones, based on Pliny the Elders Natural History from 77AD. I'm also getting time to work on a new fine-silver bezel set line of rings. Creative juices are flowing!

5. Don't Be Afraid of Change / Be Afraid but Open to Change Anyways

Borderline Hoarder of Broken Bits
Having my partner's perspective has helped me let go of some of my most un-useful habits (like hoarding broken bits of whatnot in case we might need them when we CLEARLY never will.) As we redesign our catalog, another inside perspective is invaluable in deciding which collections to expand which to discontinue (prune), which is way more emotionally scary than I anticipated. For example, we've sold lots of battery operated pocket-watches on nice crystal-adorned chains, I'm tired of explaining how to change batteries - despite the popularity of the 1980s, we've apparently blocked this part out. People often ask for these watches, but it was not until Johnny suggested I discontinue them and stop dealing with batteries and components that we did not make, that I decided to let the $20 necklace folks do the pre-fab items.
 





Road & Rail Men's Collection




We're really dedicated to genuine antiques, including the new Road & Rail men's Railroad Accessory collection and the luxe ANTIQUITY heirloom jewelry collection. It's totally liberating to discontinue items and refine our brand together.


6. Leave the Workshop Occasionally
When you have a home business - you could ALWAYS be doing something. It's important to turn off the Compass Rose brain once in a while and get some time out in the world. It's tempting for me to constantly talk about ideas as they come up - making every moment ripe with possibility as a strategic planning opportunity. DON'T DO IT. I admit I could think about Victorian fashion and politics for ages, I'm constantly thinking of new designs or things to try, but I do not need my partner to share this constant obsession.  It took me a couple of weeks to stop blurting out ideas constantly to him and to transition to making notes and bringing things up while we sorted watches - sometimes I'd even call it a meeting. We often work long hours - a typical day for me can be from 7:30 or 8:30 am and we might still be doing something at 11pm. This is possible because we can alternate what we do and maintain our interests, hobbies and lives outside of our company. Johnny is an avid beer brewer, we're actually in the long process of launching a production craft beer brewery (Van Houten Brewing), and has banjo class every Wednesday. We take lots of gardening breaks - even 10 minutes here and there keep the mind and creativity pumping.

Small Vacations Can Go a Long Way for Recovery
Of course, having a workshop you can physically take with you creates some challenges to my suggestion that you go on vacation - even for 2 days at least once per year - I would say turn your etsy shop to vacation mode, but it would be disingenuous, since I never do. Last summer, we drove almost to Canada with the etsy shop in a shoebox and a grocery bag of shipping supplies - we mailed from Portland, Oregon and Maple Valley, Washington. It tends to help pay for the vacation. We did do 3 days in Mendocino this spring and I checked out for 2 days completely, that was important. I'm still working on this one....

If you have experiences to share about working with your spouse - email me!

On a totally different note, I wanted to post a few long overdue photos from our outrageously fabulous time at the Edwardian Ball in January:

With the fabulous Sarah of Dark Garden Corsetry

Compass Rose Booth Shot


Motor Boat and Piney Fresh -
with one of the most awesome corsets ever,
by Louise Black http://www.etsy.com/shop/louiseblack
the Lovely maker of Miss G Designs
Trying on corsets at Sister Moon

Creek (me) with the Fabulous Torah of Black x Iris Creations!
Another cute couple

Adventure & Go Forth!

so much Luscious!

This just in: I was featured in the Random Nicole Blog Maker Weekly - it's a great article:

Shows just added: SF RAW MENAGERIE - April 26th, 2012
PG&E Women's Network Spring Bazaar - May 9, 2012
More information on Spring Events on our website - stay tuned!

Find us on Facebook for events & secret etsy discounts up to 20%:
Save 10% in my etsy shop with code: CRD10
Custom Order or Wholesale Inquiry - email us!

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Steampunk Insect Jewelry and the Victorian & Edwardian Era

Victorian inspired steampunk insect jewelry has risen in popularity, but few know the history of these designs are echos of elegant designs made more than a century ago. Throughout the Victorian era, images of the natural world were popular in jewelry, fashion, and furniture design. 

One of my most popular Time Flies necklace designs harkens back to earlier designs.  I made this large statement pendant with an ivory colored antique pocket watch face, probably art deco, with red and black numbering. The  detailed antiqued gold and brass butterfly stamping is reminiscent of art nouveau designs by the French designer Vever.

Vever was a family-owned jewelry design house that opened in 1821 in Metz, France. They specialized in precious gem setting as well as semi-precious and organic gemstones, creating high quality art nouveau designs popular with upscale clientele. The family company won a Grand Prize for gem-set jewelery at the 1899 Paris International Exposition, and contributed to exhibitions in Moscow (1891), Chicago (1893), and Brussels (1897).   The firm won a second Grand Prize at Paris’s 1900 International Exposition for their exquisite gem-set Art Nouveau jewelry designs. 

This 1894 Late Victorian evening gown is from the archive of the Victoria and Albert museum - you can get lost for hours! Made in a gorgeous black accented with glass beads and sequins, trimmed with tulle, embroidered net in a design of butterflies applied to the skirt and bodice, lined with silk, the bodice strengthened on the inside with whalebone. The large sleeves are also typical of this period, a revival of similar 1830s balloon style sleeve, called l'imbecile (silly) or a la folle (foolish). These exaggerated sleeve styles often required small down shoulder pillows, called sleeve pumpers. From the 1840s until the brief revival in the 1890s, sleeves were more tailored.
Pictured at right, this Compass Rose Design custom dragonfly design was a custom request - I love how it turned out with the amethyst Swarovksi crystal drop bead detail. Again, this brass dragonfly has incredible detailing and fabulous whimsy.  Victorians put great stock in symbolic romantic ideas, drawing upon ancient symbols in sentimental designs.

These jewelry designs reflect the late nineteenth-century interest in the natural world, including moths, butterflies, dragonflies, and others. The diamond, sapphire and pearl dragonfly brooch is art nouveau - circa 1890-1905.

My Compass Rose Design Jewelry mechanical clockwork beetle ring is a revival of a late nineteenth century beetle design. I've added a steampunk element with the antique mechanical jeweled watch movement. This design combines industrial elements with late Victorian romantic and natural design qualities. I have this design in both a ring and pendant version.


The late Victorian original that inspired me is pictured at left. The body of this elegant gold insect pin is fashioned from a stuning pearl, the head set with green garnets and its eyes represented by two faceted diamonds. The brooch is marked on its hook "J & M" for the firm of Jacques & Marcus, which operated in New York from about 1882 to 1892.



Sunday, February 12, 2012

A Brief History of Buttons

Victorian Buttons & Necklace
I love making antique and Victorian button jewelry. Searching for Victorian buttons for my antique button jewelry is one of my favorite adventures. Discovering jars at estate sales and hidden corners of junk shops and sorting them into colors and eras and designs is deeply satisfying.

Buttons were invented in the Bronze Age. Their earliest use in Ancient Greece, the Indus Valley and China was as ornament rather than fastener. 

15th Century Button from the UK
Buttons of bone, shell and horn are some of the earliest found. Ornamental shell buttons have been found in the Indus Valley made around 2000 BC.

Functional buttons, buttons as technology, appeared in Medieval Europe along with closer fitting garments of the 13th century on. Though the hook and eye closure was in use by the 14th century in England, in the mid 19th century
1850-1900 Buttons
steel hook closures enabled tighter lacing.

Designs of the early Victorian era reflected the romantic notions of the young queen’s courtship and marriage and a fascination with natural history.  Love tokens, travel charms and other symbol-laden, sentiment-infused jewelry was popular from 1830 through the end of the 19th century. 

Mass production methods in the 1800s popularized the use of steel picture buttons on women’s and children’s clothing from the 1860s into the Edwardian era. Victorian pictures buttons, often with multiple layers, featured detailed scenes from Classical art and European fairytales.  
Gown with Buttons, 1870-80s

Natural and romantic designs - botanical scenes, animals were common. Most buttons were made of steel, brass, mother of pearl, wood, or horn. The patterns and detail can be stunning and intricate.  

With the death of Prince Albert in 1861, Queen Victoria adorned herself in black Whitby jet mourning jewelry, causing the rest of the nation to do the same. Jet is a hard, deep black material formed when wood petrifies under pressure in the presence of salt water.

The premium jet preferred by the Queen came from mines in Yorkshire, but was not affordable to most. Since the petrified wood jet was expensive, black glass buttons came into fashion to fulfill the need for strict rules of mourning attire in Victorian Europe.

One of Queen Victorian and Prince Albert's daughters, Princess Louise is pictured at right wearing a jet necklace and mourning
Princess Louis
attire after the death of her father.

The 1860s and 1870s was also the time of the Civil War in the United States. It was a time when most of the world was in revolution, tumult and mourning. Germany, Italy, France, Prussia, and other countries were formed and torn asunder in decades of upheaval as the modern world was born. As a result of widespread grief suffered by Royal family and families the world over, keepsake charms, lockets and other sentimental expressions of love and memory flourished throughout the Victorian era into the early 20th century.  

This pair of antique button earrings by Compass Rose Design is made with a pair of buttons with a beautifully detailed flower vase design set in brass filigree setting and accented with amber brown
Compass Rose Design Earrings
 czech glass crystal beads. 



See more Victorian Button Jewelry in the Compass Rose Design etsy shop.


We're also working with antique railroad uniform buttons, circa 1880- 1920. Some of our Antique Railroad Uniform Button Cuff Links were featured in a Valentine's Day treasury on etsy.




Friday, December 2, 2011

Bazaar Bizaare, Edwardian Ball, Fine Silver Steampunk Rings and Holiday Sale

Getting ready for Bazaar Bizaare this weekend at the Concourse Exhibition Center
620 Seventh St. (at Brannan) San Francisco, CA 94103-4901



Big News! We've been invited to the Edwardian Ball on January 20th and will be there with the new Antiquities collection of gold pocket watch chain, fine silver rings and a world of luxe Victorian adornment.
 We had a great experience at Thread SF, and the Firehouse 8 Fundraiser and love connecting with folks!



I'm launching a fine silver line early next year - here is a preview of some of the planning and design work:


 Below is the bezel cup, seen from the bottom


and the top before I made the ring.


starting to look like a ring!

  
and finito!


Holiday Season is rolling along! Don't miss out on the 15% Holiday sale on my etsy site with discount code 15HOLIDAY11 until December 20th!



I've got great women's items


and men's and unisex as well



Don't miss our LAST holiday shows:



DNA Storefront Pop-Up Shop
Saturdays, December 10 and 17th, 2011

12 am - 5 pm
1767 Waller (at Stanyan),
San Francisco, CA

(more info)





Visit the Compass Rose Design website for upcoming events and discounts

Find Compass Rose Design on Facebook

 

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Holiday Shows Just Added, Pin Up Hair Emporum & Unique Boutique

NEW HOLIDAY SHOWS JUST ADDED: 


 Holiday Bazaar Fundraiser for Firehouse 8
Saturday, November 26, 2011,
10 am - 8 pm
1648 Pacific Ave.
San Francisco, CA
(more info)









DNA Storefront Pop-Up Shop
Saturdays, December 10 and 17th, 2011

12 am - 5 pm
1767 Waller (at Stanyan),
San Francisco, CA

(more info)




Bizaar Bazaar
Saturday & Sunday, December 3rd and 4th, 2011

11 am - 5 pm
Concourse Exhibition Center,
San Francisco, CA

(more info)

 
I'd like to honor the many fabulous gallery and shop owners that I work with. Each is has an ability to transmute their ideas and philosophies into a physical environment. Compass Rose Design fits into each one in a unique way.

This week, I'd like to honor one of the North Bay shops I work with:
the Pin-Up Hair Emporium and Unique Boutique, in San Rafael, California.

I love combination shops - my favorite was in West Virginia - a combination Hair Salon/Movie Rental/Knitting Shop/New Age Book Store. While you can't rent a movie at the Pin-Up Hair Emporium and Unique Boutique, you can get a haircut and color and several beauty treatments, appreciate local artists and you shop for housewares, beauty products and accessories! Here are a few shots I took while getting my hair done last week.


The Shop is dedicated to Becky's Grandmother, who had her own shop in Denmark. (this photo is from the shop's Facebook Page.)
Becky is amazing - her collection of vintage and local is nothing but luscious. Get a haircut or beauty treatment and shop from her collection of handmade and vintage for the discriminating treasure hunter.




When you enter the shop, you are greeted by this most deeeeelightful succulent bathtub extravaganza - a feast for the eyes before you treat yourself.




Above, painted vintage records create the perfect space and color palette in what used to be a bagel shop in San Rafael, California.



Grab a cup of tea while you browse and enjoy either a current edition of Paris Vogue or a vintage beauty magazine.


Compass Rose Design Jewelry fits right into Becky's luscious vision of vintage love, with lace and antique ceramics lining the shelves.



A selection of vintage and new handmade housewares for gift shopping - the perfect multi-tasking environment!

An awesome mural never hurts!

Lovingly constructed from floor to ceiling, this true House of Beauty is sure to delight!! Find out more about the Pin-Up Hair Emporium & Unique Boutique services.
Or you can shop now at the Compass Rose Design Direct shop

10% off my direct Compass Rose Design shop w/ RCRD10

Visit the Compass Rose Design website for upcoming events and discounts

Find Compass Rose Design on Facebook

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